What you need for conversion set
- Kato motorised chassis 11-103 or 11-104
- Small flat and cross head screwdriver
- Soldering iron
- Super glue
Installation time: <30 minutes
Question? Just contact Sven!
Take drive apart
By removing the two screws on top of the drive, you can take the whole thing apart. The two plastic rectangle bits on top are clipped in. By putting a flat screwdriver under one side, you can easily lift them off.
By using a gear puller, the worms come off easily. They are not so tight fitted that you will brake anything.
Angle motor connection points
To avoid contact with metal in the chassis, angle the terminal points about 90 degrees if this hasn’t been done yet. Use a flat screwdriver for this.
Fit the worms
First glue the adapters in the worms with superglue on the adapters. Then fit the assembly of worm and adapter on the shafts, also with superglue. If you would do the shafts first and then press the worms on it, you would just push the brass adapters away.
Check correct alignment
You can check for the right alignment with the axles of the wheels with the bottom cover (or just put it back in the chassis).
Solder the wires. There is a small + on the back of the motor to tell what is, well, the plus.
Solder the wires
Place the motor assembly in the chassis
Guide the wires through the plastic ( you might have to widen the space) and fit the motor and wheels.
Fit the bottom cover back under the model.
Solder wires to the contacts
From the two contact strips, cut off the part that was sticking inside the chassis to make contact with the old motor. Put the contact strips back in place, taking care that the end contacts go on the inside of the disc wheels.
The clip the white rectangle pieces back in place and solder the wires to the contact strips. Check on the track if it drives in the same direction as all the other trains. Otherwise you’ll have to switch the wires.
You’re ready. Enjoy the much improved driving qualities!