UK based
Prices for UK customers are shown inc 20% VAT
Other countries, inc EU, prices shown are ex VAT.
UK based
Prices for UK customers are shown inc 20% VAT
Other countries, inc EU, prices shown are ex VAT.
Please note: you need to do some milling on the metal chassis to fit the new motor.
What you need for conversion set
- The model and upgrade motor
- Soldering iron 15W/25W
- Milling drill bit and (bench) drill
- General model making tools
Installation time: Around 60-90 minutes
Conversion Bachmann Skarloey
Ultimate Motor Upgrade
Upgraded model
Content of the offer.
Question? Just reach out!
1
Installation instructions
Release the two screws on the bottom.
2
Remove the screw to release the board with the electronics.
3
Remove the three screws to release the white metal block and remove the block.
4
5
6
Take the original motor out and de-solder the wires. Then, with care, remove the worm and flywheel.
It’s easy to remove the worm from the motor. Just slide a sharp pair of tweezers through the gap, push the tweezers forward and you slide the worm (and flywheel; they are two separate parts) out. Make a mental note of the positioning of the flywheel. The deeper part has to be in the direction of the worm, when you place it on the new motor.
Push in this direction.
The flywheel and worm can be pushed on by hand. No real force nor adapter is needed. Make sure you push on the rear of the motor and not on the shaft side, as otherwise you press the motor out of the housing.
If you have a milling bit and a bench drill, milling in the chassis to make space for the motor should not be hard to do. You only need 0.5 mm more space on the back end. This needs to be taken off the motor chassis, as well as the white metal block. For the metal block, use a rough file.
Protect the chassis well when milling, so the metal residue doesn’t get into the gears. It’s very hard to clean if you don’t. I keep a vacuum cleaner next to it, when milling.
7
This is how it looks like when you’re done.
You can’t just glue the motor in the chassis. You need to glue a piece of 0.25 mm styrene (supplied with the Tramfabriek motor upgrade kit) to raise the motor. Without it, the gears will grind. The piece of styrene is not made to fit yet, so cut it to size so it lays flat on the metal. Then use superglue to fix it in place.
Here’s the piece of styrene glued in its place.
8
Now fit the motor. It can best be glued with epoxyglue. I use Araldite 90. It dries fast enough for impatient people like me, but not too fast that you can’t reposition it. And if you completely mess up, you can tear it out, clean it up and try again. Align the front of the motor to the metal bracket that’s in front of it. Check if you did the spacing correctly for the flywheel to be able to spin freely. When the glue is drying, hold the motor in place until it has set a bit and check that it is straight. The blue wire will be connected to the right side of the loco, so you can keep the blue wire on the right, but for connecting it later, it doesn’t matter.
9
When the glue is dried enough after a few minutes, I use a 9V battery to connect to the wires and check how it runs. It should be smooth and as good as quiet. Even at full speed you don’t hear whining, where you would with the original motor.
The metal weight won’t fit now, because of the bar at the end. You can choose to file it so it does fit, or just cut it off with a Xuron cutter I choose the quick and easy way.
10
Solder the blue and red wires of the motor directly to the electronics board (above). The blue cable of the motor is the plus, so connect this to the plus on the board (where now the orange cable is. There is a plus sign on the board). So:
Blue to +
Red to -
I measured wrong and cut the motor cables, so that’s why they are connected to the orange and grey wires. But you don’t need to, just connect them directly to the board.
11
Screw the metal block and electronics board back in place and test the model.
Digital
If it all works well, you can make the model digital by replacing the electronics board with a decoder. You need a decoder that is smaller than 8mm, to fit in place of the current PCB. You can read all about DCC and DCC sound conversion here.
For optimal performance, you need to change some CV settings on a decoder. For several decoder brands, the ideal CV settings can be found by clicking here.
END
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