UK based

Prices for UK customers are listed inc 20% VAT

Prices for other countries, inc EU, are ex VAT. 

 

KASTENLOK INDEX

Please note: you need to do some milling on the metal chassis to fit the new motor.

What you need for conversion set

- The model and upgrade motor

- Soldering iron 15W/25W

- Milling drill bit and (bench) drill

- General model making tools


Installation time: Around 60-90 minutes

Conversion Bachmann Skarloey

Ultimate Motor Upgrade

Upgraded model

Content of the offer.

Question? Just reach out!

1

Installation instructions

Release the two screws on the bottom.

2

Remove the screw to release the board with the electronics.

3

Remove the three screws to release the white metal block and remove the block.

4

Take the original motor out and de-solder the wires. Then, with care, remove the worm and flywheel.  You can read more here how to approach this.

The bracket that comes with the Tramfabriek Gear puller is too thick to fit between the motor and the flywheel, therefore I took a 2 mm thick piece of aluminium, drilled and filed a gap and lowered the centre of it with a milling bit. Aluminium is very easy to work with, as it is relatively soft. I filed an old wheel axle to be thinner than 1 mm and put a piece of brass on it (wood would be suitable just as well), to be able to hammer on it, to get the motor off. The parts are fitted by friction and are not hard to take off.

5

6

Protect the chassis well when milling, so the metal residue doesn’t get into the gears. It’s very hard to clean if you don’t. I keep a vacuum cleaner next to it, when milling.

The flywheel and worm can be pushed on by hand. No real force nor adapter is needed. Make sure you push on the rear of the motor and not on the shaft side, as otherwise you press the motor out of the housing.

If you have a milling bit and a bench drill, milling in the chassis to make space for the motor should not be hard to do. You only need 0.5 mm more space on the back end. This needs to be taken off the motor chassis, as well as the white metal block. For the metal block, use a rough file.

Here I use a flat file for the metal block. Continue until only a thin piece remains. Check with the motor in the model how far you have to go.

7

8

Glue the motor in place, with Epoxy glue. I used Araldite, the version with 90 seconds drying time.

Solder the blue and red wires of the motor directly to the electronics board (above). The blue cable of the motor is the plus, so connect this to the plus on the board (where now the orange cable is. There is a plus sign on the board).  So:


Blue to +

Red to -


I measured wrong and cut the motor cables, so that’s why they are connected to the orange and grey wires. But you don’t need to, just connect them directly to the board.

9

Screw the metal block and electronics board back in place and test the model.

Digital

If it all works well, you can make the model digital by replacing the electronics board with a decoder. Train-O-Matic makes excellent small decoder, available here from the Tramfabriek.


For optimal performance, you need to change some CV settings on a decoder. For several decoder brands, the ideal CV settings can be found by clicking here.

END