Conversion Dapol Class 43
to 12V coreless motor
Fits all Dapol class 43 models.
What you need for conversion set
- The model and upgrade kit
- Small flat screwdriver
- Soldering iron 15W/25W
- Thin wire (get the best wire here)
- 2 screw drivers with a large head
Good to have:
- Double sided tape (medium thick)ness
Installation time: Around 1 hour
Contents of the kit. Size of brass adapters can differ in your kit.
As with many model, just pull the sides apart with your nails and you can pull the bottom out. Slide the housing forward to release it completely from the chassis. Disconnect the plug of the lighting in the front and put the housing aside.
Remove the sticky tape
Remove the tape and save it on a piece of sticker backing. The plastic tape doesn’t really stick on well a second time, so it’s better to use new tape, but the soft tape, that’s on the side of the motor, can be re-used with a trick.
Remove screws PCB board
If your model has a DCC plug, remove the screw on each side, so the board is loose. They might be hidden under the tape.
On each side, there are two clips which should be unclipped, then the bottom can be pulled off. The bogies can just be pulled out, they are not connected with any wire.
Remove frame clips
The two parts that make the frame are held together with five clips. Carefully pry those clips of the frame. (Don’t let the picture confuse you. You already should have the bottom removed, as in step 4)
Now desolder all wires on the chassis and put the PCB (board with electronics) with wires aside. Make sure you know where the wires to the motor go on the PCB. I just cut them off from the motor, so they were still visible on the PCB.
Disconnect motor from drive shafts by just pulling the drive shaft out of the black plastic outer ends on the motor.
Remove flywheels with cardan
Using two large screwdrivers, counter twist them to pry off the flywheels (including plastic cardan piece). There is a big risk you’ll damage the original motor, but that has to be seen as necessary collateral damage to reach our goal of upgrading the model.
On the contact side of the motor you’ll see a small + next to one contact. Needless to say, this is the Plus, of course. Solder a red wire (The Tramfabriek has got great wires!) to that contact. Solder a black wire to the other contact. The motor should be pre-fitted correctly by the Tramfabriek, i.e. the red wire will be on the right side of the direction of travel, when going forward. When the wires are fitted, press the motor until the end stop in the casing.
Brass adapters in flywheel
To change the diameter of the flywheel from 1.5 mm to 1.0 mm, the supplied brass adapter have to be fitted. If they slide in, you’ll have to glue them (keep the inside clean!). If they are too tight to push in, see next step.
Fit the flywheels on the new motor. Check in the chassis for the right amount of spacing on each side.
Note: I have realised that the hole of the adapter will be made tighter, because of the pressure of the flywheel. This might make it very hard to fit the flywheel on the shaft of the new motor. Not everyone has a 0.99 mm reamer. The 3 mm short adapters have this issue and have been replaced in the kit with 10 mm long adapter. Those make it easy to fit the whole thing. Contact me if you have trouble with the old adapters and/or prefer the new, I’ll send you the replacement adapters.
Fit the two chassis parts together again, hook the clips back on and solder the wires: two wires of the motor will replace the old ones, then two wires go to the front of the chassis, two to the back.
Make tape sticky again or use new tape
I use a glue roller to make the felt-like tape sticky again, to put it back on the side of the model. It should overlap the motor casing and metal chassis.
You can also use new isolation tape or, what I prefer, quality masking tape. The glue on that tape holds much longer and doesn’t become so messy as isolation tape.
IMPORTANT before continuing: The above mentioned tape will hold the motor in place, so it doesn’t rattle. If you still experience a rattling motor, use some thicker double sided tape to fill up any gap between the motor and the chassis. So check how it runs. Check the difference between pushing a finger on the motor casing and without. If it clearly makes a rattling sound, fill up the empty space. On one model, I had to use 5 layers of 0.25 mm double sided tape on the large flat side of the casing.
After a successful test run, put the bottom back on, push the bogies in (they are different from each other), screw the PCB back on, connect the light and press the housing back on. Enjoy your improved model!
If you have any problem during the installation, don’t hesitate to contact me.
This motor upgrade kit can very well be converted to DCC. Check the digital setting page, for many decoders, to get the best driving experience.
Deze motor upgrade kit kan ook aangestuurd worden door DCC. Kijk op de digitale instellingen pagina voor de CV instellingen voor de grote decodermerken, om de beste rijervaring te hebben.